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There is always a lot of things to think about: packing what might be necessary, locking things up properly, making sure you don’t forget anything. So far, I have put a lot of things against the wall - all the stuff I have to consider taking with me, but I am aware that it will need to be reduced. There is no other way as it is just too much.
This trip is very different. As much as it is about exploring and resting, this time it is about recovery and deep thinking. Lot of things have been happening in the last two years or so - not all good and not all bad.
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This is all about opportunities - a spot where I need to be without going back to a dark place that has been the main cause of my struggle and pain. Wherever I am now, I don’t want to be stuck for too long as it is both stressful and frustrating.
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Half of the bag is filled up with the essential stuff (sketchbook theme this time). The other, smaller one, is packed with papers, concertinas and other pads. I had to trim down on what I want to take (mostly paints, because they are the heaviest).
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Let’s say we made it safely to the other side of the ocean. It was a very long night and a day - turning into a night again. Taxis, trains, planes, cars… we finally got into Cancun. The heat and humidity - I forgot how oppressive it can be.
Page 5
We met C’s auntie for breakfast at El Pocito - definitely not an early breakfast. All the great food (apart from what I wanted - la sopa de lima). The food was great: tacos de cochinita and eggs with chaya.
After that we set off to go south - it was a very long drive on a highway that is perhaps not the nicest in the world (not the worst either - that title is reserved for some other Mexican states, from what I have seen). We got to Bacalar after dark - really tired, of course. I had to get up at 3 a.m., but because the alarm clock went off at 2 a.m., it got even harder. I somehow managed to soldier on - I was free at noon.
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On Tuesday, we went to three Mayan archaeological zones. All of them are surrounded by the jungle. The first one was Dzibanche. On the way up to the plaza, there were quite a few trees.
Page x Monday
Swimming in Laguna Bacalar - wooden pier with very clear water. The whole lake looks amazing in so many shades of green and blue, with white spots, depending on the sunlight.
Water lilies growing next to the pier.
Walk around Bacalar with colourful buildings and murals.
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Dzibanche
Kinichna
Kohunlich
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Boat trip on Laguna Bacalar
Chacchoben
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We drove to Oxtankah archaelogical zone, but sadly, it was closed. It is a shame that the information on the website was not correct.
Page 8
We left Bacalar early in the morning. Crossing from the state border from Quintana Roo to Campeche means a time zone change, so it looks like we saved one hour. At least on the way there. Driving is not fun as there are many lorries, which slows down everything. You perhaps would not want to go too fast at certain places on that road: imagine rocks and potholes - definitely not fun. I will not be commenting on how people drive here, I don’t think it will change anything, just annoy me even more.
Balamku - a stunning place
Chicanna - another stunning place
Becan - and yet another stunning place - at this time I was quite tired, and I needed a dry shirt (and more drinks to keep myself hydrated). Mosquitoes in the jungle - let’s not talk about them here.
El gusano quemador - quite dangerous caterpillar that you may encounter unwillingly - as they launch themselves on a silky line from branches above you.
We also plnned to see Xpuhil and Hormiguero, but it wasn’t to be this time. Hormiguero is located further away from the road, deeper in the jungle, so I can imagine the drive there would be quite tedious after seeing other places.
Calakmul was not too far either, but again, consider the jungle and pretty bad roads, and seemingly short distances become a bit of a challenge.
Page 9
We are in Bacalar today and going to the pier for a swim or two. With one michelada and and some water to cool down, it was a good day! Breakfast was simple: my sandwiches and tacos with carnitas from the mercado - stuff that locals eat, and that I can’t get enough of - any tacos (apart from tacos de pepena) are great for me.
We will be driving back to Cancun tomorrow. We are going to Chiapas next. There are a few things to see there. One of the things to see it Tonina (I don’t put accents over letter for Mayan/Spanish places for simplicity reason) - it is an ancient Maya city that was at war with Palenque (a lot). Palenque is one of my favourite Mayan sites - with a lot of stuff that has been mapped but not excavated. Last time we went there, there was a lot of work in progress, but those areas were off-limits.
Page 10
It took almost five hours to get to Cancun from Bacalar. After that we went to the airport and landed in Tuxtla Gutierrez in Chiapas. Then we took a small bus ride to San Cristobal de Las Casas, which is in the mountains. Since this is Mexican sierras, the view were amazing - you could see a lot of the clouds in the valleys below. Of course, the temperatures dropped - no more tropical heat with humidity. The flora is quite different, too.
There is a lot to see here. First night we ended up at artisanal tianguis, where you can see a lot of stuff made and sold by the indigenous community. There is just so much, but behind all that colour, there is a lot of poverty and hardship. Little children sell small things, like toys and flowers.
This town used to be the capital of the region, and it definitely attracts tourists. It is quite attractive and maintained well around the centre.
I ended up buying a few books from a local Feria del Libro - lots of used books, you just need a lot of time to sift through all that. I have an interesting book about Tonina - the best catch from yesterday, a comic book about the Maya and a little book about books. A good first day in the area!
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Pan dulce with local coffee grown in Chiapas - good stuff!
It seems like going to Tonina this time makes no sense as the area is closed off by the locals who are currently in dispute with the government officials.
Bonampak, Yaxchilan, Calakmul, and now Tonina, I will have to wait a bit longer to see them.
Page xx Wednesday
Got a really nice mole at the local market (Mercado Viejo). Also had tacos. Interesting to hear local people using their own languages, sometimes alongside Spanish. It is worth noting that Spanish is not the first language for many of the people who live here in Chiapas.
Page xx Thursday
Park in the mountains. Got there my riding on to small busses that move the locals around. Ended up walking up a little, then sat down and drew a few things.